March 1, 2024

Cantonese fare at Yun House

After all these years, only now do I have the chance to try Yun House in Four Seasons. Totally smitten by the interior – elegant and sophisticated, yet not at all cold or distant, you feel welcomed and invited to join in the warmth and cozy ambience.

Hong Kong chef Jimmy Wong put together a couple of choice dishes for our review. We started with the Four Seasons Combinations Platter which had lovely dim sum such as Crystal Dumpling with Morel Mushroom and Black Truffle, Beancurd Skin Roll with Shrimp and Mustard and Wok Fried Carrot Cake with dried shrimps, dried scallop, egg and diced pickled radish or choy poh.

The translucent skin of the dumpling broke at first bite to reveal its juicy contents, elevated with truffle oil; can’t go wrong with crispy and springy bean curd skin roll while the carrot cake, or rather, white radish (lo pak ko) was simple but so flavourful.

I almost passed out when I heard how expensive the Japanese Sea Cucumber was. Braised for hours in soup with Himamatsutake Mushroom and Sea Whelk together with a host of other ingredients, the milky soup was robust, with depth and taste beyond compare, an almost sticky consistency. Executive chef Jimmy Wong explained that some 40kg of ingredients were boiled down to get 4kg of soup! This was liquid gold indeed.

The main dish was Steamed Sustainable Grouper Fillet with Chinese Hua Diao wine, caviar and ramen which sat on a layer of steamed egg. Banking on the freshness of the fish, this dish appeared deceivingly simple but was expertly put together, harnessing the umami of the wine and caviar that came together beautifully.

Dessert was refreshing Lemongrass Jelly with Bird’s Nest together with Steamed Rice Cake with Shredded Coconut, Black Sugar and Macadamia Nut. Again, simple but with so many components.