December 2, 2023

As surely as Flour rises

An old bungalow has been given an updated elegant demeanour as Flour’s new abode after its former Hartamas abode. We had the Parivartan Evolution part 2 menu, a culinary passage thru India, guided by Chef Yogi who hails from Rajasthan. He offered a world-view of Indian cuisine, not just as we know it – consisting of just Indian breads, butter chicken and predictable curries, but expanded across the continent, showcasing inspired dishes from different states. And what a journey it was!

*Trinity of appetisers – Chilli Chutney with Papadum, Almond Tart with Raita and Sun-dried Tomato, and Jalebi. Papadum was straightforward enough, enhanced with a tiny morsel of chutney, slowly edging towards the more flavourful raita and exquisite sun-dried tomato, given a boost of wasabi and lemon zest on the jalebi.

*Paper-thin and super crisp, an envelop of unfermented Dosa filled with chopped shitake mushroom and Gruyere cheese was gorgeous. I could have had this for main course alone, except that it would have to be five times more!

*From Rajasthan, the vegetarian Ker Sangri was fresh, punctuated by blanched French beans and asparagus with raspberry purée. Quite different from what you would expect of a salad course. House-made curd laced with paprika, tamarind drops and spices together with bits of Greek cheese and cherry tomatoes grazed the asparagus and French beans to give delightful texture and complexity of flavour.

*West Bengal yielded Macher Jhol – miso-marinated white cod on Dijon mustard sauce, topped with smoked trout roe. Simple but utterly hypnotic taste elements.

*Gujarat showcased Dhal Dhokli, a heartwarming Arhar lentil soup with mustard seeds, curry leaves and cumin poured over soba noodles and diced scallop. So light, with delicate sweet and tiniest hints of sour – surprising, and quite delightful.

*Punjab gave us Mango Lassi made from Harummanis mango, paired with 60g Persian caviar. This was one of fav dishes… such contrasting flavours, a sweet dessert-like, yet savoury, tangy and punctuated with character.

*From Uttar Pradesh comes kebab featuring smoked poached mussels on yoghurt green with coriander, mint and baby spinach. Accentuated by two dollops of mustard oil and some fresh herbs. My dinner mate got the kebab nuance, I didn’t but loved the taste of how everything came together nonetheless.

*Next was Kerala’s Konju Moilee – charcoal-grilled tiger prawn dressed with mustard seed-accented coconut milk sauce and prawn oil spiked with bird’s eye chilli. Another one that chalked top marks for me, and so simple.

*Then Jammu and Kashmir gave us Wazwan, a delectable tandoor-grilled lamb rib with a quenelle of grated white radish, walnuts and mint. A perfect shade of pink, who says only the West know how to cook their meat well?

*Rogan Josh was Kashimiri-inspired lamb loin ragout with dum aloo and pilaf. You get potato pavé on sorrel-fenugreek leaves/baby spinach sauce, paired with the fluffy basmati rice with raisins, dried figs, cashew and pistachio. This was possibly the only dish that kept closest to traditional interpretation, proving sometimes the original is the best version.

*Ending with Prasad, a confection of halwa with meringue, almond Chantilly cream, sesame praline, crushed nuts and house made lavender honey. Looked like ice cream in appearance, but crumbled with a biscuit. Not too sweet, certainly the best end to a lovely meal.