March 4, 2024

MadHatter in Kepong offers brunch and breads

At the relocated MadHatter in Kepong, you can expect food that you’re not going to find anywhere else. Dessert maestro Marcus Low now offers mains as well, with a focus on breads and brunch.

We started our review with a platter of Cold Cuts and Dips. There was Smoked Paprika and Cocoa Husk Lamb and Ayam Kampung Ham with Turmeric Leaf, cured by Marcus himself, paired with unique dips of Faux Liver Pate made from cashews, nam yue and blackened kulim and Cerapu Jam – no real animal liver in sight. Slightly salty, tinge of sweet, the layers of flavours were peeled away with each mouthful, revealing something different each time. I also found out for the first time what cerapu was – a native mangosteen – quite a different flavour profile from the purple fruit we know. There was also Smoked Mackerel Pate topped with salmon roe that came with Cocoa Husk crisps.

The cold platter meats were delightful, and the Dios, while quite different from anything I’ve had, grows on you. The fishy Pate was also very good, tho the Cocoa Husk crisps were a bit too hard. Normal baguette would have been fine.

Then there was the Kukur Mushroom Pate on a Pizza Foccacia – not quite pizza, more foccacia but again, different. The aroma of mushrooms was strong but it went well with the bread.

Not a tempoyak fan, but I could live with the open sandwich that was Deepfried Pomfret with Tempoyak Mayo, fish fingers over toasted bread smothered with yellow tempoyak mayo – fermented durian – lifted with kaffir lime leaves. Who would have thought they went together?

We also had Beef Tongue Stew with Chimichurri & Bagel, Kacang Pool Madhatter, made with chickpeas, red beans, chilli and cumin, Madhatter’s gorgeous pastries like croissants with gula melaka, Pain Aux Bidara with red Indian jujube and Banana Bread with Cardamom Cream.

The bagel was quite substantial and highly recommended if you like beef tongue and bagel, as it’s a great combination. Wasn’t taken up by the Kacang Pool – sort of reminded me of dhal curry, pales in comparison with the other items here.

In his element, Local Chestnut & Coffee Tart, Raspberry Rose Lychee, Chocolate and Cherry, Chocolate Calamansi and Apple are but a sample of his lovely offerings.